People all over the world love to admire the mechanical mastery of a high watchmaking movement. Fascinated by the spinning and turning of the tourbillon, they delight in the intricacy of the gears, the sensuous lines of the bridges, the finishing on the plates, and in every spectacular detail.
It stands to reason that skeletonized timepieces particularly appeal, for they put all the mechanical complexity on full display. In the 22 years since Mr. Pascal Raffy took the helm of BOVET, he has insisted on making sure the movement is visible, its high watchmaking pedigree open to be admired, while at the same time reinforcing the House’s commitment to the decorative arts.
Given this focus on mechanical artistry, it might seem a bit surprising that the new BOVET 1822 Virtuoso XI is the very first full skeleton timepiece the House has ever introduced.
And what a skeleton it is.
Virtuosity
The Virtuoso collection from BOVET 1822 gets its name from the designation given to the most accomplished musicians in the world, and it represents the level of the artisans in the House. Mr. Pascal Raffy, owner of BOVET 1822, considers every member of the House as an artisan and a virtuoso. The timepieces produced by these virtuosos are not just time keepers, but instead works of art.
Inside Skeletonization
The delicate dance when skeletonizing a movement is to remove enough material to enhance the aesthetics and completely show the inner workings, while still keeping the movement robust enough to function impeccably. Take away too much material from the bridges, for example, and they could deform and damage the performance of the movement.
For this reason, the Virtuoso XI flying tourbillon movement, first used in the Virtuoso VIII, already endowed with beautiful and finely finished details, was re-engineered specifically to be open worked. The original movement’s Grand Date was removed and the gear train relocated to a more aesthetic position, and the entire movement was designed to be skeletonized. The bridges and plates were made as thin as possible from the start, and where they couldn’t be made any thinner due to structural requirements, angling and beveling makes them appear thinner than they actually are.
However, Mr. Raffy wasn’t content with just applying the art of skeletonization for this timepiece. He was determined to do something that had never been done before and his mandate was to engrave both sides of the movement’s components. In normal skeletonized watches, the movements are often tightly packed without much room in between the bridges and wheels, so engraving both sides is too difficult and would be pointless because it would not be visible
With the Virtuoso XI, the movement was specifically conceived and designed from the start to have enough space to engrave both sides of the bridges and plates, and room to admire them, and the result is exceptional. More transparent than any timepiece that BOVET has ever produced, every aspect of this high watchmaking movement is on full display.
This allows you to dive into the movement, letting your eyes wander throughout its construction, admiring the transparency, the attention to detail, the high finishing, as well as the overall ethereal effect.
Hand-Finishing
The first step once the components are produced is to finish them all by hand. They are beveled and angled in preparation for the next step, the engraving. The finishing is all done by hand thanks to the expertise of the artisans, who know just how much material they should remove to achieve the perfect symmetry and shape. Some of the parts can take hours to bevel and angle to get them just right. Remove too much material and the piece has to be discarded and the process starts over.
Traditional Hand-Engraving
Metal engraving has been around since the 5th century, usually as a way to signify wealth and to add decoration to jewelry and other objects. BOVET 1822 first engraved movements and cases in the early 1800s, and in fact was the first House to use an exhibition back, as customers loved to admire the highly-decorated movements.
Keeping this tradition alive, BOVET 1822 has a complete hand-engraving and finishing workshop within the Tramelan manufacture. The Virtuoso XI was realized in this workshop, done just as it was performed hundreds of years ago. The only difference is that the gravers and chisels, which are often hand made by the artisans themselves, are more effective and use today’s metals, and the work is done through modern microscopes.
The engravers at BOVET love a challenge, and the start of the engraving for the Virtuoso XI -- even the pont de minuterie (the minute train bridge) is engraved -- resulted in a lot of consternation, wringing hands, shaking heads, and repeated use of the word folle (French for “crazy”). Once they started, however, the artisans took up the gauntlet and the finished movement is a triumph of the human touch and the artistry of the engraver.
The hand-engraving for the Virtuoso XI takes around 80 hours for the movement and the Writing Slope case. The engraving is done free-hand and leaves no room for mistakes. Surprisingly, the engravers, sitting quietly in the well-lit atelier, don’t seem to feel any pressure, though anyone watching them certainly does. The artisans delight in the dance of their tools as they transform a plain bridge or plate into an engraved objet d’art.
The decoration is BOVET’s own Fleurisanne motif, one that the House has used for decades. Inspired by the tree leaf pattern on Greek columns from centuries ago, this theme is one of the signatures of BOVET. The use of this motif recalls that the House is still based a stone’s throw from where it was founded – a small village named Fleurier.
The production of the Virtuoso XI is severely limited, due to the time it takes to engrave and finish each movement and case, and the meticulousness needed at every step -- the artisans at BOVET can only produce one or two a month.
The Manufacture Movement
The flying tourbillon movement that drives this exceptional timepiece meets BOVET’s demanding criteria of chronometry, reliability, and expression. It draws its energy from a single barrel that ensures more than 10 days of power reserve (240 hours, when the industry standard is 42-48 hours), all while maintaining the balance wheel's oscillations at 18,000 vph.
Finally, the long power reserve, provided by a single barrel, would require meticulous winding if not for the spherical differential winding system. The application of this ingenious mechanism, and the multi-gear three-dimensional teeth of one of its pinions, has received two patents. Because of this system, the number of crown turns needed for full winding of the mainspring is halved without increasing friction and forces exerted on the gears.
The power reserve barrel is laser-engraved with the Fleurisanne pattern. Due to the barrel’s thin metal, hand-engraving was impossible, as the metal would have deformed under the engraver’s pressure.
The Virtuoso XI’s movement uses BOVET’s patented double-side flying tourbillon, and the hair spring and regulating organ used are entirely made in-house.
The Virtuoso XI is a triumph of high watchmaking, skeletonization, hand-engraving, and hand-decoration. All told, more than 60 pairs of human hands have come together to transform this timepiece into a true work of art.
全世界都喜欢欣赏高级制表运动的机械精湛工艺。他们着迷于陀飞轮的旋转和转动,沉醉于齿轮的复杂性,甲板的感性线条,板桥的饰面以及每一个壮观的细节。
因此,镂空的腕表尤其吸引人,因为它们将所有的机械复杂性都展示出来。自 Pascal Raffy 先生接管 播威1822 以来的22年中,他一直坚持确保机芯可见,高级制表的血统可以被欣赏,同时强化了品牌对装饰艺术的承诺。
鉴于这种对机械艺术的关注,播威1822 Virtuoso XI 是品牌首次推出的全镂空表,这似乎有点令人惊讶。
而且它是一个多么出色的镂空。
技艺
播威1822 的 Virtuoso 系列得名于世界上最杰出的音乐家,也代表了品牌的工匠水平。播威1822 的所有成员都被 Pascal Raffy 先生,视为工匠和艺术大师。这些艺术大师制作的时间表不仅仅是时计,更是艺术品。
镂空内部
镂空机芯的精妙之处在于去除足够的材料以增强美学效果并完全显示内部结构,同时保持机芯足够坚固,以确保其完美运行。如果从板桥中去除太多材料,它们可能会变形并损害机芯的性能。
因此,Virtuoso XI 陀飞轮机芯,首次用于 Virtuoso VIII,具备了美丽和精细的细节,经过重新设计,以进行镂空化。原本的大日期被取消,齿轮传动装置重新定位到更具美学的位置,整个机芯都为镂空设计。甲板和板桥尽可能地制作得薄,而在结构要求下不能有误,角度和倾斜使它们看起来比实际更歼薄。
然而,Raffy 先生并不满足于只为这款时间表应用镂空的艺术。他决心做一些以前从未做过的事情,就是雕刻机芯组件的两侧。在普通的镂空手表中,机芯通常紧密排列,桥梁和轮之间没有太多的空间,因此雕刻双面十分困难,而且没有意义,因为它不会可见。
但Virtuoso XI的机芯从一开始就被特别构思和设计,以有足够的空间雕刻板桥和甲板的两侧,并有足够的空间来欣赏它们,这结果是非常特殊。这比播威曾经制造过的任何时间表都更透明,这款高级制表机芯的每个方位都清晰可见。
使人可以深入了解机芯,让您的目光漫游其构造,欣赏其透明性、细节关注、高度饰面以及整体的虚幻效果。
手工打磨
组件生产完成后的第一步是手工打磨。它们被倒角和角度处理,以准备进行下一步,雕刻。由于工匠的专业知识,他们知道应该去除多少材料才能达到完美的对称性和形状。有些部件可能需要几个小时才能完成,恰到好处。如果去除太多材料,零件将不得不被丢弃,然后重新开始整个过程。
传统手工雕刻
金属雕刻已经存在了数个世纪,通常用于表示财富并为珠宝和其他物品添加装饰。播威1822 早在19世纪初就开始雕刻机芯和表壳,实际上是第一家使用透视底盖的制表品牌,因为客户喜欢欣赏高度装饰的机芯。
为了保持这一传统,播威1822 在 Tramelan 制造工厂内设有一个完整的手工雕刻和打磨工作坊。 Virtuoso XI 是在这个车间制作与数百年前完全相同。唯一的区别是雕刻刀和凿子通常是由工匠们自己手工制作的,并通过现代显微镜进行工作。
播威的雕刻师们喜欢挑战,Virtuoso XI 的雕刻开始后,连分钟轨道也被雕刻,结果引起了很多困扰。但一开始,工匠们就接受了这个挑战,成品机芯是手工和雕刻师艺术的胜利。
为 Virtuoso XI 进行手工雕刻的机芯需要大约80小时。雕刻是手工进行的,不容许任何错误。令人惊讶的是,坐在明亮的车间里的雕刻师似乎并不感到任何压力。工匠们喜欢看着自己的工具在将普通的板桥变成雕刻工艺品。
打磨采用了 播威自己的 Fleurisanne 图案,这是播威数十年来一直在使用的图案之一。受到几个世纪前希腊柱子上的树叶图案启发,这个主题是播威的标志之一。使用这个图案让人联想到 播威仍然坐落在创立之地 - 一个名叫 Fleurier 的小村庄。
由于每个机芯和表壳的雕刻和打磨都需要大量的时间,并且每一步都需要仔细,因此 Virtuoso XI 的生产受到了严格的限制 - 播威的工匠每月只能生产一到两只。
制造机芯
驱动这款卓越时间表的飞行陀飞轮机芯符合 BOVET 对计时性能、可靠性和表达力的苛刻标准。它从一个单发条盒中汲取能量,确保超过10天的动力储备(240小时,而行业标准是42-48小时),同时保持摆轮的振动频率为每小时18,000次。
最后,单个发条鼓提供的长动力储备如果不是因为球形差速卷绕系统,就需要精心的卷绕。这个巧妙机制的应用和其中一个制动器的多齿立体齿轮已经获得了两项专利。由于这个系统,为了完全卷绕主发条,所需的表冠转动次数减少了一半,而不会增加齿轮上的摩擦和作用力。
发挑盒上刻有 Fleurisanne 图案。由于发条盒的金属较薄,无法手工雕刻,因为金属会在雕刻师的压力下变形。
Virtuoso XI 采用了 播威的专利双面飞行陀飞轮,单发条和调节器均是自家制造。
Virtuoso XI 是高级制表、镂空化、手工雕刻和手工装饰的杰作。总之,超过60对人手汇聚在一起,将这款时间表变成了真正的艺术品。