Czapek & Cie launches Place Vendôme Complicité, a unique reinterpretation of a double escapement combination initially created in 1930 and very rare in wristwatches. Two independent escapements beat at their own pace, with any rate variations balanced by a differential, all beautifully laid out on the dial side.
The idea for the watch was born in 2018 as an evolution of Czapek’s renowned initial models, Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme; the movement architecture of those pieces translates into a distinctive Czapek ‘face’ with sub-dials at the 7.30 and 4.30 positions on the dial.
While the technical aspect of the double escapement concept was fascinating to Czapek’s CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel – and the group of ‘rare people’ who make up the Maison’s inner circle of collectors, investors and enthusiasts – it’s a guiding principle of Czapek that the beauty of a mechanism is as important as the beauty of the habillage – the dial, hands and case.
The starting point for Complicité was to respect the dial layout of the original Place Vendôme model – on which the two signature sub-dials form the base of a pyramid, completed by a third sub-dial at the apex. An initial sketch was then designed: the escapements would be at 7.30 and 4.30 and the differential that connects them would be at the 12.00 position.
“The real beauty of the idea lies in this way of expressing the double escapement, with the differential at 12 o’clock as a central element,” explains Xavier de Roquemaurel. “And by bringing the mechanism to the dial side and open-working everything, we would also have a beautiful kinetic sculpture.
However, building such a movement was easier said than done; after a fruitless search for a watchmaking partner capable of reconciling the aesthetics with the technical demands, the idea was eventually put to one side. And then, one day, a story of family and friendship brought it back to life. Paul, one of Xavier’s children, was in the same school class in Neuchâtel as the daughter of watchmaker Bernhard Lederer, and a mutual friend introduced the two fathers. Their encounter led to a friendship, mutual exchanges of ideas, advice and help and, ultimately, resolved the problem, made the new double escapement architecture possible and gave birth to the watch.
The name of the new timepiece, Place Vendôme Complicité alludes to this collaboration – as well as to the complicity between two independent escapements working in unison.
The principle of the double escapement regulator is that, with two balance wheels beating independently, and power delivered from a single barrel via a differential, any variation in rate (which may be caused by gravity or various other factors inherent in everyday life) will be cancelled out, thus ensuring greater timekeeping accuracy.
With the double escapement at its heart, Czapek’s new in-house Calibre 8 is manually wound to provide a power reserve of 72 hours, which is indicated on the dial at 6 o’clock between the balance wheels. Two sapphire bridges reveal the entire gear train on the dial side, protected by a box-style sapphire crystal glass.
Dominated by distinctive, triangular bridges from which the balances are suspended, the aesthetic blends modernity with tradition, playing with the colours of different metals of various components while drawing the eye deep into the workings of the movement. Naturally, haute horlogerie finishes abound, with traditional handcrafts complemented by more contemporary decorative finishes – not only on the dial side but also on the back of the movement, where 18 inward angles have been hand-bevelled.
The crown wheel – a signature of Bernhard Lederer – is integrated into the movement design as a subtle tribute to his contribution to the development of Complicité.
As a backdrop to the movement, two dial colours are offered: cool tones of grey that create a subtle harmony with a white gold case, and a bolder combination that epitomises Czapek’s more adventurous spirit: deep sapphire blue in a rose gold case. The satin-brushing of the flange and index ring contrasts with the matte grainé surface of the baseplate.
Adding contemporary style, the hands are sword-shaped and open-worked, so as not to obstruct the view of the mechanism, and their shape is echoed by the applied hour markers. All are plated in gold to match the case material and tipped with luminescent coating to enhance legibility in low light conditions. In true Czapek style, some almost-hidden details have been added purely for aesthetic effect; for example, looking deep into the movement reveals that the post on which the hands are mounted has been open-worked to create a tiny ‘arcade des heures’ (arcade of the hours).
Inspired by the cases of Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme, the case – a relatively compact and very wearable 41.8mm diameter – is a distillation of Czapek’s signature iconography, with sharper lines adding contemporary flair. The eye is caught by a dynamic tension between the flowing curves of the case sides and the crisp angles of the deep recesses on the sides of the lugs, the play of light and shadow amplified by a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. Completing the ensemble, an alligator strap that matches or closely complements the colour of each dial is fastened with a gold folding clasp.
“Our vision at Czapek is to be at the forefront of the evolution of modern Haute Horlogerie, projecting watchmaking’s heritage into the future,” says Xavier de Roquemaurel. “The connection with the past remains fundamental but we are expressing it in new ways – with the Place Vendôme Complicité being just the latest example of this philosophy.”
Czapek & Cie 推出了Place Vendôme Complicité,这是对1930年首次创造的双摆轮组合的独特诠释,在腕表中非常罕见。两个独立的摆轮以各自的速度运转,任何速度变化都会通过差动装置平衡,所有这些都在表盘上美观地展现出来。
这款腕表的概念诞生于2018年,是对Czapek着名初期型号Quai des Bergues和Place Vendôme的演变。这些腕表的机芯结构传承了Czapek独特的面孔,表盘上的子表盘分别位于7:30和4:30的位置。
双摆轮概念的技术方面令Czapek首席执行官Xavier de Roquemaurel着迷,组成该制表厂的收藏家、投资者和爱好者的核心圈子的“稀有人士”,但Czapek的一个指导原则是,机制的美丽与装饰(表盘、指针和表壳)的美丽同等重要。
Complicité的起点是尊重原始Place Vendôme型号的表盘布局——两个标志性的子表盘构成了金字塔的基础,金字塔由顶部的第三个子表盘完成。然后设计了一个初步的草图:摆轮位于7:30和4:30的位置,连接它们的差动装置位于12:00的位置。
Xavier de Roquemaurel解释说:“这个想法的真正之处在于这种表达双摆轮的方式,以12点的差分装置作为中心元素。”“通过将机制带到表盘的一侧,并将一切都进行镂空设计,我们拥有一个美丽的动态雕塑。”
然而,构建这样的机芯说起来容易,做起来难。经过漫长的寻找能够调和美学与技术要求的制表合作伙伴,最终将这个想法放在一边。有一天,一个有关家庭和友情的故事将其重新带回到生活中。Xavier的一个孩子Paul在纳沙泰尔的同学中,与制表师Bernhard Lederer的女儿在同一个班级,一位共同的朋友介绍了这两位父亲。他们的相遇导致了友情、意见和帮助的相互交流,并最终解决了问题,使新的双摆轮架构成为可能,并诞生了这款腕表。
新腕表的名称Place Vendôme Complicité 暗示了这种合作,以及两个独立的摆轮一起工作的默契。
双摆轮调节器的原理是,通过两个独立运转的平衡轮,以及通过差动装置从单个发条盒提供动力,可以取消任何速度变化,从而确保更高的计时准确性。
以双摆轮为核心,Czapek的新自家研发Calibre 8手动上链,提供72小时的动力储备,该储备在表盘上的6点位置(两个摆轮之间)显示。两块蓝宝石桥在表盘一侧揭示了整个传动系统,由箱式蓝宝石水晶玻璃保护。
以独特的三角形桥支撑的主要特征,从中悬挂摆轮,美学上融合了现代与传统,利用各种零件的不同金属颜色玩味,吸引视线深入机芯内部。当然,高级制表工艺充斥其中,传统的手工工艺与现代的装饰工艺相辅相成——不仅在表盘一侧,在机芯背面,18个内角都经过手工倒角。
这款腕表的表冠设计融入了Bernhard Lederer的特点——一种细微而微妙的致敬,表现在Complicité上。
机芯的背景,提供了两种表盘颜色:灰色的冷色调,与白金表壳形成微妙的和谐,以及更大胆的组合,体现了Czapek更具冒险精神的一面:深蓝色与玫瑰金表壳完美搭配。金带的缎面拉丝与基板的磨砂表面形成对比。
为增强在低光条件下的可读性,指针呈剑形和镂空设计,不会妨碍机芯的视野,它们的形状与应用的小时标记相呼应,都镀金以与表壳材质相匹配,并尖端带有发光涂层。以纯粹的美学效果为目的,一些几乎隐藏的细节已被添加;例如,深入机芯可以看到指针安装在上面的柱子已经进行了镂空处理,成了一个微小的“小时拱廊”。
受到Quai des Bergues和Place Vendôme的表壳启发,这个相对紧凑且非常适合佩戴的41.8毫米直径表壳是Czapek标志性图案的精华,锐利的线条增添了现代气息。表壳侧面的流畅曲线与表耳侧面的深凹槽的清晰角度之间产生了动态的张力,光影的变化通过抛光和刷砂表面的混合呈现出来。套装完成后,与每个表盘的颜色匹配或相近的鳄鱼皮表带,带有金折叠扣。
“在Czapek,我们的愿景是引领现代高级制表术的发展,将制表的传统投射到未来,”Xavier de Roquemaurel说道。“与过去的联系仍然是基础,我们正在以新的方式来表达——Place Vendôme Complicité只是这一理念的最新体现。”