After two years of developing the moon phase could be finally revealed. With Felipes Philosophy of using traditional methods, the most amount of time went into the testing of different crafting methods, to find out what the advantages and disadvantages of each techniques are.
The moon phase is Felipes first watch with a handmade complication and the first step towards a completely self-developed and handmade movement. All complication parts such as gears, pinions, rivets and the bridge that holds the moon are made to perfection using only traditional watchmaking skills.
The Dial of the moon phase is partly skeletonized to reveal the complication. Decorated with hand engravings, frosting and beveled edges, it features a variety of finishing techniques. The chapter ring has a black mirror polish with eastern arabic numerals. On the finished watch you can choose between breguet, arabic, roman or chinese numerals. The moon features a dark side that is black rhodium plated and the bright side which is white rhodium plated. Due to Felipes origin from brazil he chose to show the moon from the perspective of the southern hemisphere.
Aside of the technical development the biggest challenge was to fit the large moon into the case without having to increase the tickness. For this reason, Felipe placed the moon in the middle of the mechanism. The moon is 0.4mm thicker than the movement and closes perfectly with the dial. The movement is hand-scored and then sawn, filed and finished watch the bridges will be frosted.
经过两年的开发,月相手表终于揭开了神秘的面纱。根据菲利普的理念,使用传统方法,长时间用在测试不同的制表方法上,以找出每种技术的优势和劣势。
月相是菲利普首款带有复杂功能的手表,也是走向完全自主开发和手工制作机芯的第一步。所有复杂功能的部件,如齿轮、小齿轮、铆钉和支撑月球的桥板,都是完美制成,使用传统制表技巧。
月相手表的表盘部分是部分镂空的,以显示复杂功能。打磨有手工雕刻、磨砂和倒角边缘,采用多种精整技巧。刻度环具有黑色镜面抛光,上面有东方阿拉伯数字。在成品手表上,您可以选择宝玑、阿拉伯、罗马或中文数字。月球有一个黑色镀铑层的暗侧和一个白色镀铑层的明侧。由于菲利普来自巴西,他选择从南半球的视角展示月球。
除了技术开发,最大的挑战是将大月相放入表壳中,而无需增加厚度。因此,菲利普将月相放在机芯中间。月相比机芯厚0.4毫米,与表盘完美闭合。机芯手工雕刻,然后锯、锉和完成,桥板上将进行磨砂处理。