ANDERSEN Genève
Jumping Hours - Rising Sun Edition
Pt950 Case & 18ct Pink gold (5N) hand guilloche “losanges magiques” dial
Limited Edition of 50 timepieces
Pink gold and platinum combine to glorious effect in the new edition of ANDERSEN Genève ’s exceptional Jumping Hours watch, unveiled on 13th June 2023 at the Tokyo residence of Switzerland’s Ambassador to Japan; Japan – the Rising Sun country.
Limited to 50 pieces, the Jumping Hours – Rising Sun Edition is a work of true horological artistry, which hails the enduring bond between Japan’s pioneering watch community and ANDERSEN Genève.
In the 1980s, as Svend Andersen achieved growing renown as a leading independent watchmaker, Japan’s discerning collectors and connoisseurs were quick to recognise the skill, artistry and inventiveness of his work. A close relationship was formed between ANDERSEN Genève and the watch community in Japan, a country where craftsmanship, detail and beauty carry such value, and where traditional watchmaking skills are held in such high regard. Engine turning techniques (guilloché), mirror polishing, champfering hand engraving can only be achieved with the best craftsmen in their respective fields.
Many important ANDERSEN Genève timepieces have since been made for Japanese collectors. These include several stunning unique pieces with perpetual calendars or minute repeater, and the famous “Voyage” world-timer, a 50-piece limited edition made in 2005 in collaboration with Mr Yoshi Isogai of the celebrated retailer Shellman. Few are ever resold.
Mr. Isogai was the owner of Boutique “Shellman” in Ginza. He introduced and distributed independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour, Svend Andersen, Beat Haldimann just to name the one’s belonging to AHCI (Académie des Créateurs Indépendants). Thanks to his passion for details and watchmaking, some of the most beautiful ANDERSEN Genève timepieces are on the wrists of collectors in Japan.
In 2023, ANDERSEN Genève has once more created a 50-piece limited edition designed to delight its Japanese clientele. The Jumping Hours – Rising Sun Edition was launched on June 13 in Tokyo at the Swiss ambassador’s residence, to an audience of many of the country’s most esteemed watch collectors and aficionados.
Jumping Hours: an ANDERSEN Genève signature
The new watch is ANDERSEN Genève ’s latest interpretation of the Jumping Hours complication, in which the hour is displayed through a window in the dial – ‘jumping’ from one hour to the next on the hour – while minutes are indicated by a hand. A complication loved both for its minimalist elegance and for the emphasis it brings to the dial itself, the Jumping Hours holds particular significance for ANDERSEN Genève.
In 1995 Svend Andersen was first commissioned to create a watch with such a display, combining it with a minute repeater. It subsequently became requested in a number of “pièce unique” commissions, and famously gave rise to one of the most recognisable ANDERSEN Genève inventions, the “Jour & Nuit”. This ingenious design, which used the Jumping Hours module to carry a double-ended ‘jumping’ 24-hour hand, led to a series of watches made for Cartier in 1998 (Pasha Collection), as well as well-known editions for ANDERSEN Genève.
In recent years, ANDERSEN Genève has taken the Jumping Hours complication to new levels of artistry and beauty, as a platform for watches that emphasise traditional craft above all else: excellence in mastering this high end complication thanks to skilled watchmakers linked to aesthetical details made by hand.
Horological art: Jumping Hours – Rising Sun Edition
ANDERSEN Genève once again presents an exceptionally refined interpretation of the classic Jumping Hours complication, in a version that pairs a hand-finished platinum case with a dial of 18ct pink gold: a subtle and exceptionally beautiful combination.
The hour is indicated through a window at 12 o’clock, while the minutes tick by discretely on a sub-dial at 6 o’clock, indicated by a white gold hand. This points to a railway-style chapter ring printed in dark blue, as is the ANDERSEN Genève logo above the hour window.
The rest of the dial forms a canvas for a virtuoso display of traditional guilloché engraving, etched directly into the pink gold surface. The dial is dominated by a mesmerising “losanges magiques” pattern, while a “clous” pattern occupies the minutes sub dial. Performed by one of Switzerland’s finest artisans, several days are required to engrave a single dial, with three different engine turning machines used to build up the intricately detailed pattern.
Viewed up close, this guilloché engraving brings incredible iridescence to the dial surface as the light catches it from different angles, and emphasises the rich tonal contrast between the pink gold and the platinum 950 case. The case itself requires different techniques of machining and craftsmanship to build, and to achieve the most flawless finishes – the flanks are satin brushed, while the bezel is mirror polished. The curving lugs are made separately in traditional style, and painstakingly welded to the case.
The reverse of the watch is equally enchanting: a sapphire glass case-back reveals the flawless hand-finishing of the movement, including meticulous champfering around the individual parts, Côtes de Genève decoration and mirror-polishing of the screw-heads, all performed in-house by ANDERSEN Genève artisans. The automatic movement is wound up by a majestically decorated rotor in 18ct pink gold hand guilloche “grains d’orge”. Topped of with a small plate on the bridge where one can see the “A” ANDERSEN Logo. The plate is screwed thanks to a tiny -blued steel screw!
The movement is encircled by a ring of 21ct BlueGold, created via a unique heat treating process. To achieve BlueGold, the precious 21ct gold is mixed with iron elements and heat-treated to turn it a radiant shade of blue – a technique that, in watches, ANDERSEN Genève alone has mastered, and which results in a unique tonality for each ring. A spectrum of colors can be obtained from light blue, dark blue, brown (champagne color), purple and grey. Finally the ring is hand engraved with the number of the timepiece “ X/50 ”.
The watch is powered by the Frédéric Piguet 11.50 movement, an exceptionally reliable Swiss calibre. Its ultra-slim dimensions make it a perfect base to carry the jumping hours mechanism developed and assembled in-house by ANDERSEN Genève , while its two-barrel architecture ensures a long power reserve of up to 72 hours.
ANDERSEN Genève
Since 1980, ANDERSEN Genève has been creating high-end timepieces for collectors around the world. Its work combines incredible ingenuity with beautiful craftsmanship, much of it produced in limited edition series or on a bespoke basis for clients wanting something personalised, something completely unique.
Svend Andersen first achieved fame in the watch world in 1969 with his “Bottle Clock” invention – a horological take on the “ship in a bottle” concept. He went on to develop his craft in the Grand Complications Atelier at Patek Philippe, where he worked for nine years. In 1980, he began taking private commissions from discerning collectors, soon opening his own workshop in Geneva – ANDERSEN Genève was born.
Ever since, ANDERSEN Genève has been developing watches of significant complexity and beauty. In particular, it has become famous for its series of magnificent Worldtime editions; the ingenious “Montre A Tact” watches that replace a dial and hands with a pair of time reading windows in the top and side of the watch; its perpetual calendars; the “Secular Perpetual Calendar”, which requires no manual adjustment up to and beyond the year 2400; and its exceptional Jumping Hour models.
Svend Andersen is also the co-ounder of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendents (AHCI), which represents and promotes the work of the world’s finest independent watchmakers.
With two small teams working in the heart of Geneva and, since 2022 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, only a few dozen timepieces leave the ANDERSEN Genève Ateliers every year – in fact, fewer than 1,300 timepieces have been manufactured since 1980. In all that time, the Geneva Atelier has remained at the same location next to the Rhône river, where traditional watchmaking artisans have worked for centuries. As such, Svend Andersen and ANDERSEN Genève have at the heart of independent watchmaking for over four decades.
SUSTAINABILITY
Every component of this timepiece is created, manufactured and assembled in Switzerland
ANDERSEN日内瓦
跳时 - 升蓬版
Pt950 表壳和18克拉粉红金(5N)手工珐琅“losanges magiques”表盘
限量版 50 枚
粉红金和铂金在ANDERSEN日内瓦出品的新款跳时手表中产生了出色的效果,该手表于2023年6月13日在瑞士驻日本大使馆东京住所揭幕,以纪念日本的朝阳之国。
限量生产50枚的Jumping Hours - Rising Sun Edition是一件真正的钟表艺术品,它赞颂了日本开创性的钟表社区与ANDERSEN日内瓦之间持久的纽带。
在20世纪80年代,随着Svend Andersen作为领先的独立钟表匠日益享誉盛名,日本的收藏家和鉴赏家迅速认识到他的工作的技艺、艺术性和创新性。ANDERSEN日内瓦与日本的钟表社区建立了密切的关系,这是一个非常重视工艺、细节和美感的国家,传统的钟表制作技艺在这里备受推崇。花纹扭纹技术(guilloché)、镜面抛光、倒角手工雕刻只有通过各自领域最优秀的工匠才能实现。
许多重要的ANDERSEN日内瓦钟表后来都是为日本的收藏家制作的。这些包括几款令人惊叹的独一无二的钟表,带有万年历或三问功能,以及着名的“Voyage”世界时钟,这是与着名零售商Shellman的Yoshi Isogai先生合作于2005年推出的50件限量版。很少有钟表被重新销售。
Isogai先生是银座精品店“Shellman”的老板。他介绍并销售了独立钟表匠的作品,如Philippe Dufour、Svend Andersen、Beat Haldimann等,仅举几例(属于AHCI,即独立创作者学院)。由于他对细节和钟表制作的激情,一些最美丽的ANDERSEN日内瓦钟表现在在日本的收藏家手中。
2023年,ANDERSEN日内瓦再次为其日本客户创建了一款50件限量版,Jumping Hours - Rising Sun Edition于6月13日在东京瑞士大使馆住所发布,受到了该国最尊贵的钟表收藏家和钟表爱好者的欢迎。
跳时:ANDERSEN日内瓦的标志
这款新手表是ANDERSEN日内瓦对跳时复杂功能的最新解读,其中小时通过表盘上的窗口显示,每小时“跳”到下一个小时,而分钟由一个指针表示。跳时是钟表复杂功能的一种,因其极简主义的优雅和突出的表盘而备受钟表爱好者喜爱,对于ANDERSEN日内瓦来说,它具有特殊的意义。
1995年,Svend Andersen首次受命创造一款带有这种显示的手表,将其与分钟重复器结合在一起。随后,它在许多“独家定制”委托中被要求,最终产生了最具代表性的ANDERSEN日内瓦发明之一,“Jour & Nuit”。这个巧妙的设计利用了跳时模块来搭载一根双面“跳”式24小时指针,导致了一系列为卡地亚(Cartier)制作的手表(帕莎系列)以及为ANDERSEN日内瓦制作的着名版本。
近年来,ANDERSEN日内瓦将跳时复杂功能提升到了新的艺术和美的水平,将传统工艺置于重要位置,重点强调手工制作的美感。
钟表艺术:Jumping Hours - Rising Sun Edition
ANDERSEN日内瓦再次呈现了经典跳时复杂功能的极致精致诠释,将手工精制的铂金表壳与18克拉粉红金的表盘相配,形成一种微妙而异常美丽的组合。
小时通过12点钟的窗口指示,而分钟在6点钟的次盘上以白金指针进行离散指示。这指向了一个铁路式刻度圈,印有深蓝色,ANDERSEN日内瓦标志位于小时窗口上方。
表盘的其余部分呈现出传统花纹扭纹雕刻的绝妙展示,直接刻在粉红金表面上。表盘主要由一个令人着迷的“losanges magiques”图案占据,而分钟的次盘则占据“clous”图案。瑞士最杰出的工匠之一需要几天的时间才能雕刻一个表盘,使用三台不同的花纹扭纹机来构建复杂的图案。
从近距离观察,这种花纹扭纹雕刻在不同角度光线照射下会带来令人难以置信的彩虹般的表盘表面,突出了粉红金与铂金950表壳之间的丰富色调对比。表壳本身需要不同的加工和工艺来制造,以实现最无瑕疵的表面处理 - 侧面呈现出亚麻布纹理,而表圈则是镜面抛光的。曲线形的表耳以传统风格单独制作,并经过精心的焊接。
手表的背面同样令人陶醉:蓝宝石玻璃表背显示了机芯的无瑕手工表面处理,包括周边零件的精细倒角、日内瓦条纹装饰和螺丝头的镜面抛光,所有这些都由ANDERSEN日内瓦的工匠在内部完成。自动机芯由一枚18克拉粉红金手工珐琅“grains d’orge”装饰的转子上缠绕而上,顶部放置了一个小板,上面可以看到“A” ANDERSEN Logo。该板由一个小的蓝钢螺丝固定!
机芯被21克拉的BlueGold环绕,通过独特的热处理工艺制成。为了获得BlueGold,宝贵的21克拉金与铁元素混合并进行热处理,使其变成光彩夺目的蓝色 - 这种技术在钟表中,ANDERSEN日内瓦是唯一掌握的,每个环都呈现出独特的音调。可以从浅蓝色、深蓝色、褐色(香槟色)、紫色和灰色中获得一系列颜色。最后,环上手工雕刻了时间计的数量“ X/50 ”。
这款手表由Frédéric Piguet 11.50机芯驱动,是一款异常可靠的瑞士机芯。其超薄尺寸使其成为搭载ANDERSEN日内瓦内部开发和装配的跳时机制的理想基础,而其双桶体系确保长达72小时的长动力储备。
ANDERSEN日内瓦
自1980年以来,ANDERSEN日内瓦一直为全球的收藏家创造高端钟表。其作品将令人难以置信的机智与精湛的工艺结合在一起,其中许多是以限量版系列或按客户的个性化需求制作的,希望获得个性化的东西,完全独一无二。
Svend Andersen首次在1969年以他的“瓶子时钟”发明而在钟表界赢得声誉 - 这是对“瓶中之船”概念的钟表版本。随后,他在百达翡丽的大复杂工坊中发展了自己的工艺,在那里工作了九年。1980年,他开始接受要求严格的收藏家的私人委托,很快在日内瓦开设了自己的工作室 - ANDERSEN日内瓦应运而生。
从那以后,ANDERSEN日内瓦一直在开发复杂且美丽的钟表。特别是,它以一系列壮丽的世界时钟版闻名;巧妙的“Montre A Tact”手表替换了表盘和指针,采用了位于手表顶部和侧面的一对时间读数窗口;它的永久万年历表;“Secular Perpetual Calendar”不需要手动调整直至2400年以后;以及其卓越的跳时型号。
Svend Andersen还是独立钟表匠学院(AHCI)的联合创始人,该学院代表和推广全球最优秀的独立钟表匠的作品。
自1980年以来,ANDERSEN日内瓦已经开发了高度复杂和美丽的钟表。尤其以其一系列宏伟的世界时间版而闻名,这些钟表强调传统工艺的上乘之处;其代替表盘和指针的一对时间阅读窗口的巧妙“Montre A Tact”手表;其永久历表;无需手动调整直至2400年以后的“Secular Perpetual Calendar”;以及其卓越的跳时型号。
Svend Andersen还是独立钟表匠学院(AHCI)的联合创始人,该学院代表和推广全球最优秀的独立钟表匠的作品。
ANDERSEN日内瓦的两支小团队位于日内瓦市中心,并自2022年以来位于洛桑。每年只有不到几十块手表离开ANDERSEN日内瓦工坊 - 实际上,自1980年以来,仅生产了不到1,300块手表。在所有这段时间里,日内瓦工坊一直位于罗纳河旁边的同一位置,几个世纪以来,传统的钟表工匠一直在这里工作。因此,Svend Andersen和ANDERSEN日内瓦在独立钟表制造领域已经有四十多年的历史。
了解更多信息,请访问www.andersen-geneve.ch。
可持续性
这款手表的每个组件都是在瑞士制造、加工和装配的。