Powered by a mechanical movement featuring a novel construction and a cylindrical balance-spring, the Chronomètre FB 3SPC approaches the core theme of precision from a new angle. It took several years to perfect the adjustments of the regulating organ before obtaining official "chronometer" certification (ISO 3159 standard): a first for such a movement.
The only cylindrical balance-spring chronometer-certified by the COSC
The mechanical movement of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC is based on a cylindrical balance-spring, a rare watchmaking speciality on which Ferdinand Berthoud himself worked. His nephew, Louis Berthoud, favoured its use in his famous No. 26 decimal watch. The Calibre FB-SPC is the only one of its kind to satisfy the chronometric (precision timekeeping) criteria of the COSC: ISO 3159 certification made possible only by the precision adjustments performed by the Manufacture's watchmakers. Many months of research, testing and fine-tuning were necessary to define the number of coils and the geometry of the terminal curve at the attachment points to optimise rate precision.
Appearing at 9 o'clock, the three main escapement organs – the balance-wheel, pallet-lever and escape-wheel – are thus individualised, distinct and prominent. This ample space dedicated to the regulating organ enables its operation to be admired in full, and the cylindrical balance-spring to be seen beating throughout the three-day power reserve, including through a large water-resistant porthole created in the case middle at 9 o'clock.
A design inspired by pocket watches
While the FB 1 and FB 2 collections belong to the legacy of Ferdinand Berthoud's marine chronometers, the FB 3 collection borrows from the style of the Master's nephew, student and successor: Pierre-Louis Berthoud (1754-1813) known as "Louis Berthoud".
Its round case recalls the curves of pocket watches from the early 19th century. A single line hugs the curves of the domed crystal and the slender polished bezel of the FB 3 models, while harmoniously extending along the strap and the lugs screwed to the case.
An architecture designed to highlight every detail
The other deep-seated characteristic of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud lies in the desire to create movements with a legible, graphic and three-dimensional architecture. The mainplate is placed at the heart of Calibre FB-SPC and the components are assembled on either side of it.
On the dial side, a close-knit array of six bridges traces curves and lines directly inspired by the work of Louis Berthoud. They are echoed on the back by ten other bridges forming an intimately juxtaposed mosaic.
The hours and minutes appear on a peripheral inner bezel ring, small seconds at 6 o'clock and the power reserve at 2 o'clock. The rest of the dial, deliberately left open, enables one to admire the aesthetics of the movement's components, their arrangement, as well as the surface conditions alternating between chamfered and polished bevels and matt surfaces created by fine sandblasting.
More than 100 hours are required to decorate the 230 components of the movement in order to achieve the ultimate degree of perfection characterising the creations bearing the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud signature.
The Chronomètre FB 3SPC.1 features an 18-carat white gold case, 2N pale yellow gold movement components and an eggshell-coloured dial in sandblasted silver-toned brass.
Production of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC is naturally limited by the capacities of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud workshop in Fleurier to a maximum of 25 of these timepieces per year.
SUSTAINABILITY
Case made of ethical gold
Chronomètre FB 3SPC搭载了一款具有创新结构和圆柱形游丝的机械机芯,以新的角度探讨了精准度的核心主题。在获得正式的“天文台表”认证(ISO 3159标准)之前,调整调节器的工作花费了数年时间,这是此类机芯的首次认证。
COSC认证的唯一圆柱形游丝天文台表
Chronomètre FB 3SPC的机械机芯基于圆柱形游丝,这是一种罕见的制表专业,Ferdinand Berthoud本人曾在其中参与。他的侄子Louis Berthoud更喜欢在他着名的No. 26十进制手表中使用这种技术。Calibre FB-SPC是唯一一款满足COSC(天文台表)标准的机芯:只有制表厂的制表师进行的精密调整才能实现ISO 3159认证。需要数月的研究、测试和微调,以确定螺圈数量和终端曲线几何形状的最佳值,以优化速率精度。
在9点钟位置出现的三个主要的擒纵系统 - 摆轮、擒纵叉、擒纵轮 - 因此是独立、鲜明和显着的。这个专门用于调节系统的宽敞空间使人可以完整地欣赏其运作,圆柱形游丝可以在三天的动力储备期间全程工作,包括在9点钟处的机芯中间创造的大型防水舷窗中。
受到怀表启发的设计
虽然FB 1和FB 2系列属于Ferdinand Berthoud的航海计时表传承,但FB 3系列则借鉴了主人的侄子、学生和继任者Pierre-Louis Berthoud(1754-1813)的风格,他被称为“Louis Berthoud”。
其圆形表壳回顾了19世纪初怀表的曲线。一条单一的线贴合拱形蓝宝石水晶的曲线,以及FB 3型号纤细的抛光表圈,和螺在表壳上的表耳相呼应,形成和谐的延伸。
强调每一个细节的架构
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud的另一个深入特点在于,它希望创造具有可读性、图形和立体结构的机芯。主甲板位于Calibre FB-SPC的中心,零件在其两侧组装。
在表盘一侧,六个板桥齐刷刷地追踪着Louis Berthoud工作的曲线和线条。在背面,另有十个板桥形成一个紧密相邻的马赛克图案。
小时和分钟显示在内部周边刻度圈上,小秒针位于6点钟位置,动力储备位于2点钟位置。表盘的其余部分故意保留开放,以便欣赏机芯零件的美学特征、它们的排列,以及由精细喷砂制造的倒角和抛光倒角与哑光表面之间的表面状况。
需要100多小时来装饰机芯的230个零件,以实现Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud标志的创作的终极完美度。
Chronomètre FB 3SPC.1采用18K白金表壳,2N淡黄色金机芯零件,以及银色钛金表盘。
Chronomètre FB 3SPC的生产数量受限于Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud工坊在Fleurier的产能,最多每年生产25只这样的腕表。
可持续性
表壳由道德金材制成